Well I made it back from the upper Colorado. It was a fantastic trip, I am still working on the post so it might be as bit as I wait on photos. After getting home from the trip I got back to the Enki drawings with the intent to finish them off. So here they are.
Aside from the larger scale (1 1/2" to 1' ) I also updated the Table of Offsets putting the station lines and frames into alignment. This will simplify the lofting process down the line.
Normal body, profile, amd plans view.
Profile view with possible arrow detail on hull and with interior layout cutaway.
Plan view with decks on and cutaway with decks off.
Profile view of strong back and hull cutaway.
Finally after all of that hard work Lea and I needed some time on the water and Elsie needed a nap.
Those are some dynamite drawings. I like the design. Looks like we were going for similar characteristics in our own designs. Yours has a bit more briggsian bow and is a little flatter than mine. You've also got a bit more transom angle than mine (bottom at 9.5" along the sheer line, and perpendicular to the sheer). Good work overall tho.
ReplyDeleteCouple questions.
I like your raised locks. I would like to something similar on mine but not sure if I need to angle the locks. That you distance from seat top to bottom of the oarlock horn
Have you thought about self bailing. I know this more of a camping and fishing boat than a Grand Canyon boat, but you obviously run a good bit of whitewater. Do you have a plan for self bailing? In my boat I used t hate rim gutters too slope continuously out of the boat. It was a cool design that would be easily replicated plywood. You could also get really close by cutting weep holes with the centers aligned on the Deck line. Put a pvc pipe half in the bottom and you have a weep hole drain like a kayak cockpit.
The back passenger well is great on a fishing boat and even sometimes on a dory, but sometimes you want it decked. I just ran the deck like the way back and put one more large hatch lid across that is easily removable. I also have a removable level floor that pops out. It's ill convertible between a passenger footwell and decked storage.
Chris,
ReplyDeleteThe distance to the from the seat top to the bottom of the oar locks is critical. When you are trying to get a oar out of the current, particularly in big wave trains having high oar locks gives you more room to get them out of the way. The angle is also important, my new rule of thumb is to measure the angle of the top of the gunwhale then divide it by two and use that as the oarlock angle.
The plans say camping and fishing dory but in reality it is primarily a whitewater design. In the drawing phase I neglected to include the bailing points (good eye). I am planning on installing the main bailer in the floor of the rowers footwell or possibly out the side of the boat as Brad Dimock has done on some of his boats. The forward footwell will likely drain back into the rowers footwell as will the aft footwell. I plan on test floating the boat fully loaded to find the waterline and decide on the bailing ports position then.
As for the aft footwell the ability to cover it with a large removable hatch is a good idea. I think with a little planning ahead the addition of such a hatch/cover will be easy done. In my normal day to day boating I need more passenger seating however on longer trips with more whitewater and less passengers the ability to cover the rear footwell would be welcome.
Thanks for the input keep in touch.